Costume Designer Sandy Powell had quite the task ahead of her when she signed up to design the costumes for "Hugo", an award-winning film set in 1930s Paris. But, after receiving a handful of raving reviews, it looks like there couldn't have been a better costume designer for the film. According to
IMDB, "Hugo" received the following nominations related to costume design:
Oscar:
Best Achievement in Costume Design
CDG (Costume Designers Guild Award):
Excellence in Period Film
Critics Choice Award (Broadcast Film Critics Association):
Best Costume Design
Saturn Award (Academy of Science Fiction, Fantasy and Horror Films):
Best Costumes
BAFTA Film Award (British Academy of Film and Television Arts):
Best Costume Design
PFCS (Phoenix Film Critics Society Award):
Best Costume Design
Rather than simply listing the awards that "Hugo" won for its costume design, I wanted to take a more in-depth look into what it took to make such top-notch costumes.
A number of different journalists were able to ask Powell about her designs. They're listed below:
1. Did you consult the book or its illustrations when designing costumes for the film?
A) They served as an inspiration for the feeling and tone of the whole look...
Martin Scorsese also screened films for us to watch...
2. How does this unified color scheme affect the mood of the film?
A) Since this is a film to capture the imagination of children as well as adults, I wanted to use a colour [sic] that would resonate...
3. Hugo is an active kid with a dirty, scrappy life. How did you account for this when making his striped sweater, jacket and short trousers?
A) I wanted his jacket and trousers to always be a bit small to show that he was alone, with no one to look after him and buy him new clothes once he had grown out of them.
1. How did you start making the costumes for the film?
A) ...I have a bunch of clothes that I just found or rented from the period and we tried them all on. I try lots of different things on the actors when I first meet them and see what shapes work, what colors work.
2. What is it like when you first see the actors in their costumes?
A) When the actors become their character, that's really the moment when you've done your job...
3. Were there any costumes you didn't love?
A) ...There are a huge number of principal actors, and non of them have more than two changes of clothing. In a film like "Hugo" where there are only one or two costumes, you've got to get them all just right.
1. What were your initial discussions like with M. Scorsese about the look and feel of the film?
A) The look and feel of the film was largely influenced by the original book by Brian Selznick. Although I didn't copy the clothes from the illustrations in the book, they served as a stating point and inspiration. M. Scorsese wanted everything - sets and costumes - to be slightly heightened and unreal as if seen through the eyes of a child or like illustrations in a picture book. ...He screens films for the crew to see, things that he is using as reference either as a feeling or as a literal reconstruction.
2. I noticed a lot of really nice knits in the film - I presume you had them custom made.
A) Hugo's sweater was based on an original one I found, so I had to find wool to match. If the colours [sic] weren't right, I dyed them to the exact shades I wanted. ...Isabelle's colours [sic] weren't so unusual; I wanted a very 'French' look for her, so she is in a lot of navy and burgundy...
3. If I may, what was your budget?
About 1.2 Million British Pounds Sterling (Approximately $1.87 Million U.S. Dollars)
Powell began her work, as she does on all Scorsese films, by watching films he has recommended. There were also photographs from the period along with photographs of Melies and his wife...
"Everything is seen as if through the eyes of a child, therefore I wanted to simplify the looks to just once, maybe two outfits for each character. I approached the actual costumes as if they were illustrations from a children's picture book, keeping the looks simple, graphic and colorful," Powell explained.
Hugo wears stripes as he runs through the idealized Paris of the 1930s... with his only ally, the plucky Isabelle, who also wears a striped sweater throughout the film. The result is... a consistent look for each character defining their personalities and helping to distinguish them among crowds in the busy railway station...
The blue of the Station Inspector's uniform is deliberately intensified.
The stripes motif on orphan Hugo Cabret and his new friend, Melies goddaughter Isabelle, for example, helps to distinguish their fast moving bodies in the packed train station...
"I wanted the characters to be seen amongst the crowds in the station, especially since a lot of the time they are seen from Hugo's point of view from up high," Powell said.
...The sleeves on Hugo's Norfolk style jacket are too short, implying he has grown out of it since his father died, suggesting the passage of time and his dire circumstances: living alone in a train station on scraps, scurrying between levels like a rat. Hugo could not be any lower when we meet him. His existence is Dickensian in the worst sense of the word.
Powell said: "I wanted the characters to be instantly recognisable [sic], like illustrations in a children's book, where characters usually stay in one outfit throughout so they can be remembered...
The still frame our group chose is pictured above.
Design Analysis
Line:
Because the movie is intended to be seen through the eyes of a child, there were no more than two costumes for each character, and costume designs were simple. Stripes were used on a handful of the costumes, including Hugo's and Isabelle's sweaters. Similarly, Madame Emilie's coat and skirt had a zig-zag pattern. These particular patterns made it easy for the characters to stand out amongst the crowds in the station. As stated on the class blog, lines "lead your eye around the composition and can communicate information through their character and direction."
Form:
Similar to line, form is apparent throughout the rectangular shape of the lines of Hugo and Isabelle's sweaters. The station inspector's hat has an almost zig-zag pattern, which also adds depth to his costume.
Color:
Color was one of the most important aspects of costume design. One of the most prominent examples of color is illustrated by the station inspector's blue uniform. Powell described that a typical station inspector's uniform would be navy. However, navy would appear black on screen, so she exaggerated the intensity of the blue in his uniform to assure he would stand out on camera. The value of the blue is also associated with energy, which is perfect because the station inspector is constantly chasing Hugo, as well as other orphans, around the station.
Similar to the station inspector's uniform, Hugo's costume featured an intensified blue color, as well as shades of burgundy, orange and brown. Isabelle's costume was made of navy and burgundy, creating a "French" look. These colors are dull, portraying a serious mood. Isabelle's outfit matches well against Hugo's, which is important as the two characters are beside each other a majority of the movie. Together, the reds, oranges and browns are warm colors, while the blues are cool colors.
Texture:
There was plenty of knitwear throughout the differing costumes, as well as wool, heavy overcoats, hats and scarves. The film is set in the 1930s but includes costume designs from the 1920s as well. The winter coats and hats takes viewers to that specific time period. When I think of running my fingers along Hugo's coat, I imagine it and his shirt to be rough, as if he's worn these clothes a hundred times without a single wash. Isabelle's coat seems to have a leathery texture, accounting for the wealth her family has.
Gestalt Principles
Law of Similarity:
Items that are similar tend to be grouped together.
Hugo and Isabelle's clothes are similar in color and pattern, making it easy to group the children together.
Law of Continuity:
Lines are seen as following the smoothest path.
The horizontal lines in the stripes of Hugo and Isabelle's sweaters imply continuation. This is especially important as Hugo and Isabelle move from scene to scene but remain in character.
Contexts
Social:
Hugo's costume puts the viewer in the most obvious social context. His clothes were purposely too small, giving an illusion that he is alone and has no one to look after him or provide him with new clothes.
Cultural:
The setting is 1930s Paris, intending a "French" culture. This is most obvious in Isabelle's costume, as the colors are explained to create a "French" look.